Peaks take practice

Liadan Hynes isn't the youngest novice skier, but experts at Les Arcs gladly help

By Liadan Hynes
Sunday Independent - November 02 2008

AS someone rapidly approaching 30, and yet to go on a ski holiday, I thought that window had closed. My thinking was that if I hadn't conquered it by my very early 20s, then did I really want to go on a holiday to spend the entire thing miles behind everyone, or worse, in a class of people not yet old enough to appreciate apres-ski?

A recent tearful phone call from a friend on her first skiing holiday -- she had fallen over and was marooned in the snow, watching her boyfriend and friends become distant specks on the landscape -- served only to confirm my views on ski holidays.

Luckily, my boyfriend had also never skied before, so when we were offered the chance of a ski trip at Arc 1950, a resort in the French Alps, the promise of a companion above the height of my hip convinced me to give it a try.

A ski trip requires slightly more preparation than your average holiday. Obviously, my first priority was my wardrobe. If I was going to embarrass myself falling over on a small child, then at least I was going to be well dressed when it happened.

Not convinced that skiing would become a lifelong passion, I didn't want to spend a lot on ski gear. I found the Dunnes Stores ski-wear range to be reasonably priced. It goes into stores in early December and the basic range includes a jacket at €75, and trousers at €60. Don't buy too much -- those who ski are more than happy to lend, in the name of creating another convert to the slopes.

So what do you actually need on a ski trip? I was told waterproof snow boots were an essential for walking around the resort. While I brought a pair, I actually never used them -- Ugg boots will be more than enough protection. Leggings, or heavy woollen tights to wear under your ski trousers are essential. I lived in polo necks, also available in the Dunnes ski range €12. They are great for keeping out the draught, as was a fleece neckwarmer which doubles as a hat, picked up in The Great Outdoors.

We brought ski goggles, but our own sunglasses proved to be more comfortable, and to offer ample protection. Your outer layers need to be waterproof. You will fall, and being wet all day is miserable. And very, very cold.

Good gloves and ski socks are also essential. Buy your ski socks on the roomy side, they're fairly tight and circulation can be an issue. A hoodie with a zip-up front is better than a jumper, as you have the option of ventilation.

There are several horrible truths about your first ski trip that are inescapable. You will feel like a complete, ungainly idiot. Five-year-old children will laugh at you as you fall on the gentlest of slopes, and only the last vestige of pride will keep you from bursting into tears and storming off. Supercilious ski-hire shop assistants will visibly sneer at a grown adult who, quelle horreur, has made it this far without ever having skied. You may find yourself on holiday with someone who turns out to be one of life's natural skiers, while you struggle to even make a successful turn.

Luckily, we had been booked in for lessons, I can't imagine trying to brave the slopes without an instructor, and in our lovely teacher, Valerie, we had found the one French person who didn't find our novice status a reason for contempt. She went so far as to offer herself as a human stopping post allowing us to crash into her, when we went out of control.

Day one veered between terrifying and frustrating. We spent most of the lesson dragging ourselves up a small piece of hill for what felt like an hour, only to spend three seconds skidding down again. All the while, more experienced skiers skimmed past, upsetting our already tenuous hold on balance. To my everlasting shame, I must admit that I stormed off the slopes, a ski-school dropout on the first day. Boots that were a size too small meant I could barely stand upright without being in agony, and when I fell for the millionth time, it all got a bit much.

Only a very patient boyfriend, and the reluctant admission on my part that I couldn't spend the whole holiday enjoying the view from the window of our apartment, got me out later the same afternoon. Our resort was a ski-in, ski-out resort, which means it is possible to ski to the door of your hotel. This proved a godsend for a beginner, as you can ski around the pathways of the hotel complex, getting comfortable on your skis without having to go through the daunting process of getting on lifts, and facing actual mountains.

Once I did get comfortable, it was an exhilarating feeling.

I would recommend a few crucial things to ensure a successful ski holiday. More important than anything, ensure that your ski boots fit. In the crouching position, with your heels at the back of the boot, your toes should still have room to wiggle. If you're in any doubt, try the size up. I didn't, and it meant wasting my first morning of skiing. Get lessons. I can't imagine going up there without someone who knows what they're doing to show you the basics. Friends who have skied for years probably don't remember the basics, as the whole thing has become innate.

Accept that you will fall, and you will most probably be laughed at by a small child wearing an incredibly stylish one piece, whose skiing competence suggests he skied out of the womb. Arc 1950, our resort, was particularly family-friendly, and I would recommend it for anyone contemplating a first-time family ski trip. In appearance it was as if Disney did ski resorts -- the traditional alpine-style buildings, town square, and fantastical oversized clock tower all had a Sylvanian Family cuteness. The apres-ski was biased towards restaurants, which were a mixture of burgers and chips, pizzas, and Italian, rather than a wild nightlife. Peak time seemed to be dinner, rather than much later, when the resort tended to be fairly quiet. Our two-bedroom apartment with a pull-out couch could sleep six, and it was fitted with a fully-equipped kitchen, which was large enough to cook in, and offered a chance to reduce holiday expenses. The resort itself has a Spar, although we found the supermarkets in the nearby town to be a far cheaper option.

Each apartment block includes an outdoor swimming pool -- it's uncomfortable getting from indoors to pool, but worth a try -- a mini-gym, indoor jacuzzi, and sauna, the latter two both invaluable after a day spent falling on your ass. Will I be returning to the slopes? I'd like to think so, although possibly with a few more lessons in Kilternan under my belt beforehand.

GETTING THERE

For more details, log on to http://www.holidayhomesdirect.ie/ or call (01) 284-6653. Holiday Homes Direct offers more than 1,200 privately owned villas and apartments worldwide and this two-bedroom apartment in Arc 1950 is available from €1040 per week. Flights are available with Ryanair to Grenoble, and with Aer Lingus to Geneva or Lyon.

Liadan Hynes stayed in a 2 bedroom Apartment in Arc1950 in Les Arc, which can sleep up to 6 people. Holiday Homes Direct advertises ski chalets and apartments to rent directly from the owners at very affordable prices. Click here for more information on this luxury 2-Bed Apartment.

- Liadan Hynes